Tools:
Cling Film
Fixing Spray
Petrolese
Alcohol
Plastic Pots
Gloves
Glue Gun
Scissors
Silicone A
Silicone B
Baby Wipes
Cotton Pads
Cotton Buds
Scales
Deadener
Super Baldiez
Silicone Pigments
Wooden Spatulas
Paint Brushes
Naphtha
Before you start working you must cover all surfaces in cling film in order to protect them from the silicones.
Begin by cutting one of your cups in half.
Mark up two different wooden spatulas with the letters A and B, this is so that no cross contamination occurs between the two silicones.
Put on gloves and spray your clay sculpture with fixing spray at a distance of 20cm by an open window and allow it to dry.
Next apply petrolese spray to your sculpture, shake it well first.
Next take your cut up cup and place the widest end down on to the plastic surface that your sculpture was made upon.
Take the glue gun and very carefully glue up the rim of the cup onto the plastic piece so that no leakage from the silicone mixture applied later on escapes. A heavier layer of glue is better, and you must wait for the glue to dry.
Next take your silicones A and B and measure them in two separate pots on the scales until they reach your desired quantity. You must use the exact same amount of each, I used 30 grams of A and B. Make sure you change your gloves after handling each silicone, use separate spatulas for each and always clean the pots of silicone down after you have finished with them.
Once you have your qualities measured out add either A or B to each other and mix it well. Try to remove air bubbles from the mixture by banging the pot down onto a flat surface.
Pour this mixture over your clay sculpture, making sure that you drizzle it back and forth so that it fills each detail in your sculpture.
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| Clay Sculpture Covered In Silicone |
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| Clay Sculpture Covered In Silicone |
This mixture should take an hour to set. Once you have finished with your mixing pots throw them away and clean down your work station. DO NOT throw the silicone down the sink.
After 1 Hour:
Remove your dried silicone from your clay sculpture.
Wipe the silicone with alcohol to remove any left over pieces of clay and grease.
Now start making your encapsulating mixture, this is created by mixing 1 part super baldiez with 2 parts alcohol.
Before applying it to your silicone mould, spray it with petrolese again.
Now apply the encapsulating mixture using a paint brush, onto the silicone mould. Do this in two thin layers.
Once the mixture goes matte it is dry and ready for the next step.
Mark up 3 wooden sticks with A, B and C.
Take your silicone A, B and deadener and create a soft flesh effect mixture.
I used 8 grams of A and 8 grams of B and about 10-12 grams of deadener. The deadener should be about 60 percent of the overall weight of A and B. The more deadener the fleshier the prosthetic piece.
Mix the mixture of the 3 elements together. You can now add the silicone pigments to the mixture so that it matches up to the piece of skin that the prosthetic will finally be attached to.
Fill your silicone mould with the mixture, and use a flat edged tool, such as a ruler to evenly distribute it over the mould.
Clean up the edges of the mould so that excess mixture is not used, the can be done by using Naphtha.
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| Back Of My Final Mould Ready To Be Removed From Silicone And Placed On The Skin |
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| My Wound Ready For Application On To The Skin |
I really enjoyed learning how to create the silicone mould for my wound. It was a lot more technical than I had imagined, but in another way more simple as I think once you have practised you could get quick at it. I enjoy cooking and found many parallels in this process, the measuring and mixing was very similar! I did however find that I kept forgetting to do things, such as applying the petrolese before the encapsulating, because of the many stages, luckily it was nothing too major and could always be fixed! I am looking forward to doing this again and hope that next time it will be even more successful!
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